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Bruce Pask’s title is synonymous with menswear, and I do not suppose there’s a particular person within the trade who could not sketch his signature smirk from reminiscence on a bar serviette. Bruce has labored in vogue for 30-plus years, although he carries with him with not one of the pomp or pretension you would possibly count on from somebody with a profession as storied as his. I’ve taken many avenue fashion images of Pask through the years and although I’ve by no means actually recognized him, he is all the time greeted me with kindness over the course of my very own menswear tenure. Lately he’s the lads’s vogue director of Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, lending his immense experience to 2 iconic companies. When he is not in Manhattan or overseas dictating tendencies and buyer wishes, he spends his downtime in a superbly up to date and well-loved cottage within the charming city of Bellport, NY, the place we photographed this piece collectively.
Beneath, Bruce and I focus on the varied positions he held throughout the style trade, working intently with Annie Leibovitz, how he handles the dense histories of Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman and updates them to suit the fashionable man, his B. Store and its wares , touring to Copenhagen for vogue week, and many extra.
Are you able to stroll me by way of your profession, out of your foundations all the way in which to what you do at the moment?
I labored numerous retail jobs rising up and whereas in class, and began my profession in journalism and journal vogue editorial shortly out of faculty as a vogue assistant at GQ journal the place I labored for about ten years, in the end serving as affiliate vogue director. I left to pursue freelance styling and costume design, desirous to see and work with vogue differently, with one other viewpoint. I used to be launched to photographer Annie Leibovitz and labored along with her on most of her editorials and covers for Vainness Truthful and industrial initiatives like styling and costing campaigns for The Sopranos and American Categorical for about three years. I then rejoined Conde Nast as the style director for the launch of Cargo, a males’s buying journal. We had an ideal however transient run after which I joined T Journal and The New York Occasions to work beneath Stefano Tonchi as males’s vogue director.
I’ve specialised in menswear for many of my profession and located the chance to take that experience and shift from the context from journalism to retail once I was employed as the lads’s vogue director for Bergdorf Goodman after which Neiman Marcus, the place I’ve now labored for about eight years. I like the retail world and with the ability to make the most of my experience in a really totally different setting, bringing an editorial viewpoint to my work in a multi-brand luxurious retailer, seeing the shops and on-line as venues for each content material and curation.
Bergdorf Goodman was based in 1899 and Neiman Marcus in 1907. I am curious what the position of Style Director entails for you, and when you take the retailers’ historical past into consideration when updating them with clothes made for the fashionable period?
I’m pushed by curiosity and am all the time on the hunt for brand new and growing manufacturers that I really feel will resonate with and excite our clients. An enormous focus for me is the curation and model assortments within the shops, in addition to working with all the service provider groups on their respective buys—serving to to information them in accordance with growing key objects and tendencies, the shifting behaviors and pursuits mirrored in our clients’ wishes, and additional clarifying our model viewpoint and vogue management throughout the corporate. Each Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman are distinct manufacturers with identities and histories that inform retailer presentation, manufacturers, and clients, and we’re seeing increasingly buyer intersection and alignment throughout the Neiman Marcus Group as a complete. With Bergdorf Goodman in New York Metropolis and Neiman Marcus shops throughout the nation, we curate distinct factors of view, environments, and merchandise assortments that greatest replicate the native buyer and their life and pursuits.
What’s B. Store, and what makes it particular within the context of males’s retail? What are a few of your favourite items this season within the store?
The B. Store is a multi-brand, mixed-merchandise store idea that I got here up with to satisfy a requirement that I noticed for a style-driven, wardrobe-focused specialty menswear presentation that focuses on elevated and attention-grabbing informal work- and weekends -wear. I journey fairly a bit and located many manufacturers specializing in an merchandise or style, in addition to some smaller designer manufacturers that I felt could possibly be given which means and significance when introduced collectively, merchandised kind of as one would organize a closet. The association helps information clients by way of creating their very own appears and helps them discover new favourite items. We’re in our third 12 months within the retailer and proceed to have a powerful presence on-line. I interact in a number of dialogue with clients and followers on Instagram, so the web store is an effective way to have the ability to serve clients throughout. I did a program of softly tie-dyed linen shirts, shorts, and chore jackets in shades of blue from Altea, an ideal Italian model. I additionally simply did a collaboration with Herschel Provide Co. on a line of six canvas and leather-based journey items that I actually like so much. We all the time get some nice artisanal items from Bode and a model known as Publish-Imperial that is made in Nigeria which can be colourful, graphic, and actually enjoyable for the spring.
What do you search for in sourcing a brand new model for a retailer? What do you search for in buying a brand new merchandise of clothes for your self?
I scour the market continuously for issues that I discover attention-grabbing, thrilling, and refreshing and all the time with a watch on our clients and their factors of view, wants, and needs. I’ve been within the menswear enterprise for fairly a very long time, so I belief my instincts and instinct once I see a model or designer that sparks my curiosity. We’re in such an expansively artistic time in menswear, with so many nice collections to select from. For myself, I completely subscribe to the concept of having a uniform, a signature fashion if you’ll. I’ve core items—definitely the chore jacket in all materials is in heavy rotation—that I combine and match usually whereas additionally injecting new items usually to maintain issues attention-grabbing. When seeing a lot nice menswear all through our shops it is extremely simple to embrace new items to maintain issues thrilling and refreshing.
My fashion has undoubtedly developed over time. I completely have a uniform that’s kind of based mostly on a steadiness of dressed-up and informal items. I nearly all the time put on some kind of jacket, a button-front shirt, and wider legged khakis or denim. I like items that add a little bit character to my relatively commonplace mixtures; a shirt that is a bit outsized, a jacket with a element or refined design.
What are some issues you possibly can’t reside with out? What are some wardrobe necessities each man ought to have in his closet?
I’ve a deep love for Italian meals so am all the time making an attempt to handle my pasta consumption. I like a chore jacket so do not actually really feel full with out one on most days. So far as wardrobe necessities, I’m all for self-determination, for carrying no matter makes one really feel greatest, most comfy—no matter one’s want is.
You are nearly to journey for market and vogue weeks overseas. Do you’ve a favourite place to journey to?
I like Copenhagen and am very excited to return in August. It is a fully lovely metropolis on the water with superb eating places, sort and beneficiant individuals, and everybody bikes all over the place. It is all the time an exquisite expertise and I will be attending their vogue and market weeks. At Neiman Marcus, we repeatedly look to determine and domesticate relationships with rising designers. We all the time look ahead to experiencing the creativity, curating one of the best of what we see and introducing new manufacturers to our clients.
Are there tendencies you are seeing that present a shift from pre-pandemic to the place we at the moment are? Within the wake of the whole lot from recession, to struggle, to workplace necessities, what are your predictions for the place males’s vogue is heading?
There has actually been a shift with the return to in-store buying, with a concentrate on luxurious and dressing up, together with a highlight on tailor-made evening-wear. At Neiman Marcus, we proceed to see power in males’s, significantly in our ready-to-wear assortment and sneakers, which could be attributed to the return to in particular person celebrations, occasions, and journey. For these events, clients have a want to precise their particular person fashion with new kinds. I definitely see this want to decorate as much as stick round. At the same time as work and workplace apparel proceed to chill out, we imagine there’s a rising want to put on tailoring and swimsuit separates just because it feels good.
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