Bruce Pask’s identify is synonymous with menswear, and I do not assume there’s a individual within the trade who could not sketch his signature smirk from reminiscence on a bar serviette. Bruce has labored in trend for 30-plus years, although he carries with him with not one of the pomp or pretension you would possibly anticipate from somebody with a profession as storied as his. I’ve taken many avenue model photographs of Pask over time and although I’ve by no means actually identified him, he is at all times greeted me with kindness over the course of my very own menswear tenure. Today he’s the lads’s trend director of Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, lending his immense experience to 2 iconic companies. When he is not in Manhattan or overseas dictating traits and buyer wishes, he spends his downtime in a fantastically up to date and well-loved cottage within the charming city of Bellport, NY, the place we photographed this piece collectively.
Under, Bruce and I focus on the varied positions he held throughout the style trade, working intently with Annie Leibovitz, how he handles the dense histories of Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman and updates them to suit the fashionable man, his B. Store and its wares , touring to Copenhagen for trend week, and many extra.
Are you able to stroll me by way of your profession, out of your foundations all the way in which to what you do presently?
I labored varied retail jobs rising up and whereas in class, and began my profession in journalism and journal trend editorial shortly out of school as a trend assistant at GQ journal the place I labored for about ten years, finally serving as affiliate trend director. I left to pursue freelance styling and costume design, eager to see and work with trend another way, with one other standpoint. I used to be launched to photographer Annie Leibovitz and labored together with her on most of her editorials and covers for Self-importance Truthful and industrial tasks like styling and costing campaigns for The Sopranos and American Categorical for about three years. I then rejoined Conde Nast as the style director for the launch of Cargo, a males’s purchasing journal. We had an awesome however transient run after which I joined T Journal and The New York Instances to work beneath Stefano Tonchi as males’s trend director.
I’ve specialised in menswear for many of my profession and located the chance to take that experience and shift from the context from journalism to retail after I was employed as the lads’s trend director for Bergdorf Goodman after which Neiman Marcus, the place I’ve now labored for about eight years. I really like the retail world and with the ability to make the most of my experience in a really completely different atmosphere, bringing an editorial standpoint to my work in a multi-brand luxurious retailer, seeing the shops and on-line as venues for each content material and curation.
Bergdorf Goodman was based in 1899 and Neiman Marcus in 1907. I am curious what the function of Vogue Director entails for you, and in case you take the outlets’ historical past into consideration when updating them with clothes made for the fashionable period?
I’m pushed by curiosity and am at all times on the hunt for brand new and growing manufacturers that I really feel will resonate with and excite our clients. An enormous focus for me is the curation and model assortments within the shops, in addition to working with all the service provider groups on their respective buys—serving to to information them based on growing key gadgets and traits, the shifting behaviors and pursuits mirrored in our clients’ wishes, and additional clarifying our model standpoint and trend management throughout the corporate. Each Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman are distinct manufacturers with identities and histories that inform retailer presentation, manufacturers, and clients, and we’re seeing increasingly buyer intersection and alignment inside the Neiman Marcus Group as a complete. With Bergdorf Goodman in New York Metropolis and Neiman Marcus shops throughout the nation, we curate distinct factors of view, environments, and merchandise assortments that finest mirror the native buyer and their existence and pursuits.
What’s B. Store, and what makes it particular within the context of males’s retail? What are a few of your favourite items this season within the store?
The B. Store is a multi-brand, mixed-merchandise store idea that I got here up with to fulfill a requirement that I noticed for a style-driven, wardrobe-focused specialty menswear presentation that focuses on elevated and fascinating informal work- and weekends -wear. I journey fairly a bit and located many manufacturers specializing in an merchandise or style, in addition to some smaller designer manufacturers that I felt might be given which means and significance when offered collectively, merchandised kind of as one would prepare a closet. The association helps information clients by way of creating their very own seems and helps them discover new favourite items. We’re in our third 12 months within the retailer and proceed to have a powerful presence on-line. I interact in plenty of dialogue with clients and followers on Instagram, so the net store is a good way to have the ability to serve clients throughout. I did a program of softly tie-dyed linen shirts, shorts, and chore jackets in shades of blue from Altea, an awesome Italian model. I additionally simply did a collaboration with Herschel Provide Co. on a line of six canvas and leather-based journey items that I actually like so much. We at all times get some nice artisanal items from Bode and a model known as Submit-Imperial that is made in Nigeria which are colourful, graphic, and actually enjoyable for the spring.
What do you search for in sourcing a brand new model for a retailer? What do you search for in buying a brand new merchandise of clothes for your self?
I scour the market always for issues that I discover fascinating, thrilling, and refreshing and at all times with a watch on our clients and their factors of view, wants, and desires. I’ve been within the menswear enterprise for fairly a very long time, so I belief my instincts and instinct after I see a model or designer that sparks my curiosity. We’re in such an expansively artistic time in menswear, with so many nice collections to select from. For myself, I completely subscribe to the concept of having a uniform, a signature model if you’ll. I’ve core items—definitely the chore jacket in all materials is in heavy rotation—that I combine and match usually whereas additionally injecting new items usually to maintain issues fascinating. When seeing a lot nice menswear all through our shops it is rather simple to embrace new items to maintain issues thrilling and refreshing.
My model has positively advanced over time. I completely have a uniform that’s kind of primarily based on a stability of dressed-up and informal items. I virtually at all times put on some kind of jacket, a button-front shirt, and wider legged khakis or denim. I like items that add somewhat character to my reasonably commonplace mixtures; a shirt that is a bit outsized, a jacket with a element or delicate design.
What are some issues you may’t reside with out? What are some wardrobe necessities each man ought to have in his closet?
I’ve a deep love for Italian meals so am at all times attempting to handle my pasta consumption. I really like a chore jacket so do not actually really feel full with out one on most days. So far as wardrobe necessities, I’m all for self-determination, for carrying no matter makes one really feel finest, most comfy—no matter one’s want is.
You are nearly to journey for market and trend weeks overseas. Do you’ve got a favourite place to journey to?
I really like Copenhagen and am very excited to return in August. It is a completely lovely metropolis on the water with superb eating places, form and beneficiant folks, and everybody bikes in every single place. It is at all times a beautiful expertise and I will be attending their trend and market weeks. At Neiman Marcus, we constantly look to establish and domesticate relationships with rising designers. We at all times sit up for experiencing the creativity, curating the very best of what we see and introducing new manufacturers to our clients.
Are there traits you are seeing that present a shift from pre-pandemic to the place we are actually? Within the wake of all the pieces from recession, to struggle, to workplace necessities, what are your predictions for the place males’s trend is heading?
There has really been a shift with the return to in-store purchasing, with a deal with luxurious and dressing up, together with a highlight on tailor-made evening-wear. At Neiman Marcus, we proceed to see energy in males’s, significantly in our ready-to-wear assortment and sneakers, which will be attributed to the return to in individual celebrations, occasions, and journey. For these events, clients have a want to specific their particular person model with new types. I definitely see this want to decorate as much as stick round. At the same time as work and workplace apparel proceed to calm down, we consider there’s a rising want to put on tailoring and swimsuit separates just because it feels good.
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